Perhaps every person worldwide, who has even seen waves cannot help, but admire their mesmerizing marine beauty. Indeed, what can be more beautiful than their shimmering during sunset or sunrise. No romantic walk along seaside or oceanside would be the same without their calming and captivating beauty. Nevertheless, they can be as much destructive, as they are beautiful. It’s a well-known fact that tsunami have destroyed great number of houses and infrastructures worldwide, as well as taken thousands of lives. Most prominent devastating tsunami happened in Japan 2011, consequences resonate by this day. However, not all rollers are same. Some are quite entertaining, inviting and do not conceal dangers. For instance, surfers adore riding moderate height rollers and even hold competitions.
Before we embark into describing their types, it’s worth to mention how waves form. They are formed by a combination of perpetual water movement, wind and moon’s gravitational force.
Most common rollers’ type is refractive. Refracted rollers form when they approach coastline in shallow water. Minimal water depth reduces roller’s power, making them soft and safe for swimming nearby. They are frequently seen in bays.
Surfs of this type are usually bit more powerful than refracted and form near beaches, where water is of moderate depth, but not shallow. Breaking surfs collapse onto themselves, when reaching shore. These surfs are not for children, one has to pay attention while swimming between them.
Rollers of this type can be most frequently observed along steep coasts, where they plunge with force and break, collapsing onto themselves and dragging objects like seashells, back into ocean. These are powerful surfs, which is why only experienced swimmers can risk swimming among them.
Seismic surfs are also known as tsunami. They are formed during earthquakes that happen in the ocean floor. These are the most devastating waves, bringing destruction and death, destroying houses, crops, taking lives and flooding entire towns, located on coastline.
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